Notes on my time with the Bidayuh, in the Bengoh Range jungle, Borneo.
I write this from back in Indonesia where I am catching up on my time spent last month living in the jungle.
I felt so much across my time in Borneo - a multitude of experiences familiar and enlightening at the same time. A reminder of the elemental forces that exist, a slowing of time, and the discovery with which that mindset brings.
My process continues to evolve, as do the lessons I am learning through the connections I am making within each new environment.
I found the jungle to be a hard place. It’s people live tough lives and are hardened by it. Not only are they physically and mentally strong from the challenges of their daily lifestyles, they are also fighting a losing battle to maintain their ancient cultures and customs. The Bidayuh pay a high price to simply exist here. 10 years back the government built a Dam close to their old village - forcing them to move their whole town piece by piece due to forced rising water levels. During the move they were given false incentives to move out of the jungle and live in settlements. The majority of the remaining familes moved in search for a better life.
Their land is ultimately taken, deforested and used to farm Palm oil and rubber; the endangered trees are sold for profit. It’s the same old story, but the ending is still the same, and to feel this first hand has left me with many mixed feelings. There are only 9 families left in Kampong Nyegol. Not long ago there were 500. What I’ve experienced is a place where patience is still tested, tempers can rise, fears exist, pain is a reality and change is inevitable. Adaptability is the only choice poeple now have. The river does not stop it’s flow, it can only change its course.
That said, there are exciting plans happening in the shape of artist residencies, eco tourism etc but there is a lot to share in what feels such little time before so much information disappears forever. Lelem tells me scientists come to the jungle and don’t know what 90% of things are. So much knowledge remains in the hands of so few. I’ve witnessed a much deeper, in-tune and balanced understanding of the rhythms of life here. I can’t help but see how we’ve ‘othered’ indigenous cultures, displacing their ancient wisdom and culture from the jungle, only to put it into museums in our cities where we think society is more advanced. But is it really?
These notes come from a short lived experience here of only one month. I would like to travel and explore Borneo further to discover so much more, as of course it’s cultures and landscapes are so vast and diverse and these views don’t represent its many peoples and places.
Thank you to Lottie, Lelem and the Bidayuh community for having us.
notes
‘Our cities, technology and tools have come to define us. We are shaped by the land as much as we shape it.
To step into the forest is to step beyond the illusion of permanence.’